mulvox blog

Picking The Right Aquarium Type

tmoithy — Sat, 09 Aug 2008 13:59:23 +0000

Aquariums have evolved into a very popular hobby, with about millions of aquarium and tropical fish enthusiasts worldwide.
Starting in the 1850s (when the predecessor of the modern aquarium were first being developed as a novel curiosity) the ranks of aquarium keeping has grown as more sophisticated systems including lighting and filtration systems were developed to keep aquarium fish healthy.
However before you can get started in the hobby you must first buy an aquarium. When you get to the pet store or specialized aquarium store you will have lots of aquarium tanks to choose from:
Metal Framework:
Most of the old style aquariums are made with sheets of glass, which are held in a metal framework. This is usually constructed of pieces of angle iron or stainless steel, which are welded together at the corners. Leakage between the glass and metal is prevented by putty aquarium cement, acrylic or silicon sealant.
Battery Jars:
Fish Globes or Bowls: This type of aquarium is useful for emergency purpose, but is not to be recommended as a permanent features. The glasses are cast in one piece and a crack, however small, may suddenly expand and cause a flood. This not only results in a loss of fishes but also necessitates the buying of a new tank, as it is impossible to repair the old one.
Also, when looking through the walls of this type of aquarium, there is distortion, which adversely affects one’s view of the fishes. Similar disadvantages apply in fish globes or bowls.
Plastics:
With the ever-expanding applications of plastics, it is not surprising that these synthetic that these synthetic products have been used to replace glass for aquarium. Plastics have advantage of being unbreakable, but are soft enough for the surface to become scratched. This is in time will mar transparency.
Vitorlite:
This glass-like material is available in many different colours and some very pleasing effects can be obtained by applying it to the sides to back up the aquarium. Moreover, being opaque Vitorlite will hide the wall and any unsightly wires or other apparatus behind the aquarium.
Wood:
Aquarium frameworks with wood are desirable mainly for aesthetic reasons. The wooden framework however will have to be constructed from plywood to prevent warping.
The advantage of the wood lies in the fact that it can be polished, covered with upholstered rug, stained or coated with colours to harmonize with the furnishing of the room.

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Dogs Are Gods Of Frolic

tmoithy — Fri, 08 Aug 2008 23:10:23 +0000

Dogs are amongst the most amazing creatures because they give unconditional love. Dogs love their masters and the masters reciprocate by providing them with all the things of comfort they can afford. Dog supplies are important and useful things for keeping your dog healthy and happy, and include items for dog grooming and maintaining good dog health. Canine or dog supplies can be classified into several sub categories, including dog training supplies, dog grooming supplies, and even more specialist items like hunting dog supplies.
Dog Grooming:
Dogs are gods of frolic. Undertaking thorough dog grooming is like having a permanent job requiring lots of patience, yet packed with exercise and the general fun of bringing up a dog and ensuring it lives a long and carefree life. Dog grooming is an important practice which should not be underestimated - a practice which ensures good dog health and hygiene and should also help to eliminate most dog health problems.
Dog grooming is in fact a somewhat intense program of dog health care that covers the entire life span a dog. Puppy care, canine health care, giving a hygiene bath, washing, combing, brushing, checking ears, paws, teeth and underside, nail trimming, removing dog fleas and insects, and fixing regular meetings with a professional veterinary are all important activities that a dog owner should undertake. A dog’s masters should follow a schedule of regular grooming sessions.
Puppy care is a very important practice that requires a lot of diligence and patience. Like children, puppies require some extra special attention. A puppy needs to be handled with extreme care, and should be groomed properly, fed carefully and well, and bedded properly.
Dog Grooming Supply:
Good dog grooming supplies are required to help undertake the important activities of dog grooming and care. A dog supply may include a dog house, dog furniture, dog carriers, dog beds (and designer dog beds), dog toys, dog collars and leashes, dog bath tub, dog soaps, dog perfumes, dog odor removers and mouth fresheners, dog clothes, designer dog clothes, dog t-shirts, dog jewelry, dog food, dog tonics and supplements and dog medication.
Dog Beds:
A dog bed is a bed designed especially for the sleeping comfort of a dog. It should be the snug retreat to where it retires to take sweet dreams at the end of a long and active day. Good dog beds play a very important part in keeping your dog in good health. An improper sleep may very much affect the health of a dog, thus dog masters should be very careful when buying dog pet beds. Dog beds and dog bedding include a dog bed mattress, dog bed sheets, dog bed cover, dog bed cushions, dog pillows, dog blankets and dog quilts or duvets.
Dog beds are available in numerous designs and sizes including luxury dog pet beds, large dog beds, wicker dog bed, leather dog beds, top quality dog beds, orthopedic dog beds etc. There are a number of designer dog pet beds available. Dog beds can also be purchased online, as there are many dog pet bed manufacturers now selling their dog beds through their websites.
“Perhaps the dog is the only animal that has seen its god, as a man is a dog’s idea of what God should be.”

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Before Buying A Designer Dog

tmoithy — Fri, 08 Aug 2008 10:03:23 +0000

Most of you have heard about, read about or seen the new designer dogs. Some of you are probably wondering what the hype is all about. Some of you think they sound and look kind of cute and trendy. A few of you may actually be in the market to buy one of these new dogs. You have heard all the cute names like Puggle, Schnoodle, Labradoodle and Maltipoo and you are probably wondering if they are purebreds or mongrels and why they cost so much. You may also have heard that designer dogs are healthier than purebreds, don’t shed and are good for people with allergies. I will attempt to address these issues and provide other information in the following article.
Designer dogs were initially developed by crossing two purebred breeds with the intention of producing a cross-breed dog with certain desirable characteristics. For example a Puggle is a cross between a Pug and a Beagle and a Shorkie is a cross between a Shih Tzu and a Yorkshire Terrier. In an attempt to design a low shed or hypoallergenic dog, breeders have crossed a variety of breeds with toy, miniature and standard Poodles. Examples of the “poo” designer dogs include the Schnoodle (Schnauzer), Goldendoodle (Golden Retriever), Maltepoo (Maltese), and Cockapoo (American Cocker Spaniel).
In order to better understand the concept of designer dogs, we need to know a little bit about canine genetics. Dogs have 78 chromosomes made up from 39 pairs or sets. Each puppy receives half of their chromosomes from their mother and half from their father. These chromosomes contain the puppy’s DNA which defines its characteristics or genetic makeup. Generalizing, this means the puppy gets some characteristics from the mother and some from the father in a “random chance” manner and the number of possible combinations is well over one billion. Therefore it is almost impossible for two puppies in the same litter to have exactly the same combination of chromosomes or characteristics. Purebred dogs were developed for a specific purpose such as hunting or herding by cross breeding two or more founding breeds that the breed developers thought would best contribute to meeting that specific purpose. Then over some period of time, the resulting offspring (usually first or second cousins) were bred with each other to minimize the “random chance” characteristics. Then over many generations the resulting dogs would start to breed true and have physical and temperament characteristics with minimal differences across generations and bloodlines. This new breed of dog could then meet a common breed standard and eventually be recognized by a national association. A current success story is the Silky Terrier which was developed in Australia around 1900 by crossing an Australian Terrier with a Yorkshire Terrier in order to obtain the best characteristics of both breeds. The Silky Terrier was recognized by the American Kennel Club (AKC) in 1933 and has become a popular companion dog ranking 65th out of 154 dog breeds registered by the AKC in 2005. Not all characteristics of a new breed are desirable. Some characteristics such as inherited tendencies to specific diseases are bad and breeders try to minimize the chances of this happening by screening the parents before breeding. However this won’t entirely prevent diseases from being passed on to the next generation if both parents are carrying a recessive gene for that disease.
Now back to designer dogs. Designer dogs can be created by breeding two appropriate purebred dogs. The resulting puppies are first-generation designer dogs that will have some “random chance” combination of the parents physical and personality characteristics. Reputable breeders will have screened the breeding parents for genetic diseases and desirable personality characteristics. Prospective buyers should ask for the breeding parents Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA) orthopedic and other breed specific test results and also the Canine Eye Registry (CERF) recent ophthalmologists report for eye disorders. Many breeders will argue that first-generation designer dogs will be healthier because they come from a larger gene pool. Multi-generational designer dogs are developed when breeders have decided to concentrate on a particular designer dog. These breeders commit themselves to a multi-generational breeding program by breeding the same species of dog in order to standardize on certain desirable characteristics. Let’s take the example of a Puggle, where breeders may be trying to minimize the breathing problems of the Pug and tone down the Beagle’s single-minded scent following characteristics. Which is better - the possibly healthier first-generation Puggle which may have more or less of each parent’s characteristics or the multi-generation Puggle with more predictable characteristics? It really is your choice.
More important is deciding on the type of designer dog you want. Size, activity level, coat type, child tolerance, etc. are all factors you need to research. Go to our Directory of Breed of Dogs and research the founding stock that makes up the designer dog. The most popular designer dogs are the Puggles (Pug and Beagle cross) followed by the Labradoodles (Labrador Retriever and Standard Poodle cross). See our Puggle/Labradoodle page for more information on these dogs.
Note that there are really two types of Labradoodles. The first is the unofficial mixed Poodle/Labrador designer breed and the second is the Australian Labradoodle which has resulted from an exhaustive Australian breeding program intended to develop a pure-bred dog breed that will be recognized by the national kennel clubs around the world. The Australian program actually involves 6 different parent breeds: Poodle (standard, miniature, and toy); Labrador Retriever; Irish Water Spaniel; Curly Coat Retriever; American Cocker Spaniel; and English Cocker Spaniel.
Other popular designer dogs are the: Schnoodle (Miniature Schnauzer and Poodle), Goldendoodle (Golden Retriever and Poodle), Shorkie (Shih Tzu and Yorkshire Terrier), Schnorkie (Miniature schnauzer and Yorkshire Terrier), Maltipoo (Maltese and Poodle), and Chorkie (Chihuahua and Yorkshire Terrier).
Some popular designer dogs are expensive and depending on the area in which you live, you may have a substantial wait time. While doing your required research, you may find you would be just as happy with one of the founding purebred breeds for less money and less wait time. Even better you may be able to save a dog’s life by visiting the animal shelters or breed rescue kennels in your area to see if there is a cute dog available which will meet your needs.

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A Pit Bull Could Be The Right Dog For You

tmoithy — Thu, 07 Aug 2008 22:57:23 +0000

Although Pit Bulls have gained a bad reputation for their seemingly aggressive behavior, this breed can be the ideal pet for the right owner. Pit Bulls crave attention and are very loyal and loving toward people.
Other dogs, on the other hand, tend to bring out the aggressive behavior of the Pit Bull. Originally bred to fight other dogs, Pit Bulls generally will not tolerate other dogs, especially those of the same sex. But with an owner who is knowledgeable about Pit Bulls and their personality traits, this breed will flourish and bring a great deal of enjoyment to their human companions.
Pit Bulls tend to be very confident, loving and bright, but also very dependent on humans. If left on their own for too long, they will often develop destructive habits such as chewing out of frustration and loneliness.
A good owner for this pet would be someone who is very responsible and committed to the specific care required by a Pit Bull. Pit Bulls need a great deal of training, exercise and one on one attention with their owners to keep from becoming frustrated. They should also not be left alone with other dogs. Therefore, a household with no other pets is an ideal home for a Pit bull.
Contrary to the image that they have in the media, Pit Bulls can be great with children. In general, Pit Bulls love people, especially children. The most common problem associated with Pit Bulls and children is that Pit Bulls are extremely energetic and they have a tendency, in their excitement, to knock young children over, puppies especially have a tendency for this.
They are also very easy to train due to their high level of intelligence and desire to please their owner. For this reason, positive methods of training work best for a Pit Bull. Demoralizing punishments usually are very counterproductive in Pit Bulls because of their personality traits and should be avoided.
Pit Bulls live for an average of 12 to 14 years and usually experience good health for their entire lifetimes. Some common health problems experienced by the breed include Parvo, hip displaysia, hereditary cataracts and allergies.
In General, this breed is very easy to socialize with humans and is typically a great deal of fun to have around. Many Pit Bulls exhibit superior performance when it comes to obedience training and physical activities such as Frisbee and playing ball. For these reasons, Pit Bulls should not be overlooked when selecting a pet if you have what it takes to care for this special breed.

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Dog Care 6 Easy Steps For A Terrific And Safe Romp In The Woods

tmoithy — Thu, 07 Aug 2008 09:30:23 +0000

Leaves are falling and paws are crunching in the parks….
What a beautiful time of the year to get out with your canine companion and enjoy the crisp, cool air, frolic in the falling leaves and take in the visual splendor of nature. A walk in the woods can be an exhilarating experience for you and your dog, especially if you’ll take a moment for some basic dog care preparations. Minimize surprises and emergencies by following these simple steps.
I don’t know about you, but I will drive hours to find a place where the dogs can run free in nature. We all love it and often spend the whole day in the mountains together. I’ve developed a list of easy dog care to-do’s to ensure we have a great time and arrive and leave together safely.
I recommend the following items for your outdoor adventures:
1. Orange vests for you and your dog
This may sound like overkill, but I recently had an experience with my dogs that scared me. I was out in the woods with my dogs when I heard shots fired not far from me. I couldn’t see my dogs and terror ran through me. Immediately I realized we were not prepared for the hunters. Bright colored vests would have helped the hunters know we were not deer, and please don’t shoot us. Every year you hear the stories of accidental shootings. Don’t be the next casualty — don your orange vests!
2. Current dog tags on collars
Keeping a collar and current dog tags on your dog helps others get him home if you get separated. One thing I have recently done is change the dog tags to read “I must be lost. Please call Mom. (xxx) xxx-xxxx”. This gives all the pertinent information, yet doesn’t provide information for an easy abduction. I don’t want someone to know my babies’ names, which might lead the dogs to believe the stranger is a friend.
3. Foot and body check during and after the outing
I check my dogs’ paws and body frequently to remove the debris from the fall season — gum balls, seeds, burrs, rocks, thorns, pine needles, and leaves can add up to irritation or lameness.
4. Fresh water and a bowl
If I can help it, I don’t let my dogs drink standing water. I carry fresh water instead. I have had to deal with stomach problems in the past from bacteria in standing water. Carrying your own water is a small thing, but doing it can prevent lots of pain and suffering, a vet bill, and a 10-day supply of antibiotics.
5. Towels
I love towels, lots and lots of towels. To me, dropping dirty towels in the washer is much easier and less smelly than detailing a car or working to get that horrible wet, dirty dog smell out of fabric and carpet in my truck.
6. Whistle — long range
Lastly, I whistle-trained my dogs. If we do separate, a blow on the whistle has them running to me. Chances are, they don’t like not being able to see me and will be happy to have me back in their sights. I highly recommend the ACME whistle that sounds from 2-5 miles. Get it on a lanyard and carry it with you.
These 6 simple steps can make your outdoor trip so much more enjoyable, for you and your dogs. And paying attention to the basics in dog care shows your dog just how much you love her.
Happy hiking!

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Morgana The Claustrophobic Kitty

tmoithy — Wed, 06 Aug 2008 19:55:23 +0000

For over ten years, my family and I have had several cats sharing our home with us. Our first kittens, Tiger and White Sox, came to us from a friend whose own two cats had produced a litter simultaneously and she was in desperate need to find good homes for them. Next to arrive was Bonnie, whom I brought home after seeing some young kids tormenting her. Then Brat Cat joined us; her mother was a stray who decided our backyard was a good birthing place.
And then there was Morgana. She was rescued from the Animal Shelter when she was still quite young.
By the time Morgana moved in, a little over a year ago, my husband and I thought ourselves “old hands” regarding litter box training. With all our previous felines, we’d had little or no trouble adjusting them to the litter box. At that time, White Sox and Brat Cat were the only two living in the house. Bonnie had passed on and Tiger refused to be a house cat, preferring to live outdoors.
Morgana was a challenge.
When she first came to us, she was about six weeks old, newly-weaned. We kept her in our bedroom the majority of the time for the first month for two reasons. First, since that is where my husband and I spent most of our time, it was easier to train her to use the litter box which was kept in our bathroom. Second, we wanted to give White Sox time to adjust to the new kitten, as she is rather old and doesn’t like changes.
We had a large covered litter box in our living room which our other cats shared. For Morgana, we placed a smaller, uncovered box in our bathroom. It took about three weeks before Morgana was consistently using the litter box, which was longer than it had taken our other cats but we weren’t overly-concerned.
The trouble began once we moved Morgana into the other parts of our home. Since she was still too little to climb into the larger litter box, we put the smaller one in the living room also. But after she became large enough, we put the smaller one away. And then Morgana rebelled. She began leaving little “surprises” for us all over our living room furniture.
We thought she just needed to be re-adjusted to the larger box, so we began our training over again. But none of our tried and true techniques worked this time. Whenever we’d put her in the litter box, she would jump right back out. And if we tried to keep her there, we would get several scratches for our trouble.
My husband and I didn’t know what else to do; we talked to other cat owners we knew to see if they might know a reason for her strange behavior. One friend mentioned that cats sometimes act out when their environment undergoes a change, but I couldn’t see how anything had changed - other than her being around the other cats more often and she seemed to enjoy that. White Sox didn’t much care for the frisky kitten and did her best to stay far away from Morgana. But Brat, being younger, loved to play with Morgana.
Another friend suggested Morgana’s behavior might be caused by not keeping the litter box clean enough to suit her. Of course, we knew that cats would often not use a dirty litter box, and so we would scoop it out every couple of hours. But now we began to clean the litter box more often; every time we saw White Sox or Brat occupy it, in fact.
But still Morgana refused. I looked around on the internet, trying to find some advice on this problem, and discovered it’s recommended to have one litter box for each cat and a spare. Sharing had never bothered our other four cats, but we went out and bought three more large, covered litter boxes anyway.
Morgana was not impressed by our consideration for her cleaniness. Her “surprises” continued. Then it occurred to us that, perhaps, she was adverse to sharing a litter box with any other cat. So we removed the large, covered litter box into our bathroom where only she would have access to it. That didn’t work either.
My husband and I were just about at our wits’ end. We had no idea what else we could do, short of making her an outside cat. We’d tried every suggestion from friends and the internet we came across and nothing helped.
And then our son gave us the clue we needed. He was playing with the cats one day, and he tossed a blanket on top of Morgana. She went wild; hissing and clawing until she got out from underneath the blanket. We realized our little Morgana had a fear of being enclosed, as she was inside the covered litter box. I suppose this derived from her time spent in a cage at the shelter with so many other kittens.
However it began, we now knew what to do. We took off the cover of the litter box for Morgana and it took no time at all before she was happily visiting it all the time.

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How To Care For Your Dog S Ear

tmoithy — Wed, 06 Aug 2008 05:34:23 +0000

Regular ear care for your dog Routine ear care is very important to the health of your dog. Perform regular checks and cleaning between visits to your veterinarian, it will help keep your dog’s ears healthy and pain free. This is extremely important to do.
I have had Goldens and Black Labs for many years, and they are well known for ear conditions. But remember, no matter how efficient you are in caring for your dog’s ears, serious conditions may still arise. Also, beware when your dog flaps its ears too much; this can cause a hematoma, which I will discuss a little further on.
My Golden had to be operated for this. Regular inspection of your dog’s Ears By performing ear inspections you will be able to detect problems early. Use both your eyes and your nose. A small flashlight will assist you in seeing problems. I have “smelled out” more serious problems using my nose. This method can detect ear infections early. Normally a dog’s ears shouldn’t smell foul in any way. A dark waxy discharge this may be a sign of ear mites. A pus-like discharge along with a foul smell this is a sign of a bacterial infection.
Allergies are also known to cause a foul smell in your dog’s ears. My Golden had very sensitive ears. If something feels wrong, make sure you have your Veterinarian check it right away. Have your Vet show you what to look for, and how to look for potential problems! My Vet is an amazing teacher and he is always willing to show me things. What dogs are more susceptible to ear problems? Dogs with floppy ears, like spaniels and bloodhounds, are very prone to ear infections because very little air flows into their ear canals.
There are also breeds, like the Lhasa Apso, that have a heavy growth of hair inside their ears. Dogs that frequently swim are more susceptible to ear problems. And, Goldens can be very susceptible to ear problems. If you suspect that excess ear hair is a problem, you may need to remove the hair that grows inside your dog’s ears. This is not very difficult and if you have a problem, find a good groomer to do it for you. How to clean your dog’s ears: Your dog’s eardrum is better protected than a human’s, but you should still proceed with caution when cleaning the ear canal. Do not insert anything into your dog’s ear. Use only the small square cleaning pads, or cotton balls. Use anything that is very soft, but has no tips. Ask your groomer or Vet to show you the best way to clean YOUR dog’s ears… Checking your dog’s ears only takes a few minutes so make it a part of your dog grooming routine. And when your dog’s ears need a cleaning don’t put it off.
Remember regular cleanings can prevent many common ear problems. If you think a problem may be developing that is beyond the scope of your home dog ear care routine, take your dog to the vet for a check up immediately. An infection, if left untreated, can be very painful.
Hematomas My Golden had one once, a big one, from shaking her head because of her ear condition. My Vet says a hematoma can turn into a very serious condition if not treated. Hematomas are collections of blood. They are common in ears because there doesn’t seem to be anything in the ear to generate enough pressure to stop bleeding until the ear swells enough with blood. Ear infections, ear mites, fly bite irritation, mosquito bites, allergies and immune mediated diseases have all been implicated as underlying causes for this problem. Anything that causes the dog to flap its ears can make this happen and it appears to occur spontaneously in a number of dogs. Large hematomas should be treated surgically or medically. Surgery usually involves making an incision on the inner aspect of the ear and draining the blood, removing any blood clots that are left and then suturing the two sides of the ear together by putting sutures all the way through it, in a “mattress” pattern. Sometimes it is possible just to place a drain and massage the blood out of the ear daily until it heals. Side note:
If you use a commercial ear product please make sure it is of good quality and please make sure it is the proper product for the condition. So many dogs have had tremendous ear pain and complications because of the wrong product, or the wrong use of a product. An educated dog owner is the best kind of dog owner.
This article is designed for educational and entertainment purposes only and should not be used in any other manner. This information is not intended to substitute for informed medical advice.
Dr. Jane Bick’s also has a wonderful ear solution, plus, regular online telephone call in opportunities where you can ask her questions. Dr. Jane Bicks http://www.healthypetnet.com/mydoghouse

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Dog Fleas Ticks

tmoithy — Tue, 05 Aug 2008 16:38:23 +0000

Fleas.
Dog fleas are different to those which infest humans and cats. When a flea bites, it injects saliva to stop the blood clotting whilst it sucks it up. The saliva contains chemicals which often cause an allergic reaction in the dog.
The signs are :-
Bites which look like small red pimples.
Black, gritty material in the coat, and areas of inflammation on the animals back.
Scratching.

What is the treatment ?
Spring-clean the house and treat the dog’s favorite places with a suitable insecticidal spray. Flea tablets or collars are a good extra precaution, and spray badly affected animals frequently with insecticide during the summer months. (the flea season)
Ticks
The common tick seen on dogs is the sheep tick. this has a large abdomen that stretches as it fills with blood. It hangs on to the dog’s hair and sticks it’s mouth parts through the skin to suck blood.Ticks are usually found on the underside of the dog, under the forelegs and on the head.
What is the treatment ?
Try to remove every tick when you see it. It is important to extract the head, otherwise an abscess may form. If the head is left in, warm compresses help draw out the infection, combined with antibacterial washes and creams.
Removing a tick.
A good method is to get the tick’s head to relax or die by dabbing it with alcohol. Wait a couple of minutes, then use fine-pointed tweezers to extract the tick. Grasp it near the mouth parts, and give it a sharp jerk. This should dislodge it.
Alternatively, flea sprays can be used locally on ticks. The tick will then die and can be removed the following day. Regular use of a flea spray in tick areas often keeps them away.
When my own dogs have suffered with ticks or fleas in the past, I’ve always managed to deal with them myself, but if you’ve any concerns at all with your own dog, then consult your vet as a precaution.

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Beware Of The Holiday Goodies That Are Not So Great For Your Pet S Health

tmoithy — Tue, 05 Aug 2008 03:55:23 +0000

The holidays mean plenty of fatty treats for most people. Who can resist …… candy, cookies, fudge, egg nog, pumpkin pie, not to mention the home cooked meals and family togetherness? It’s part of the spirit of the season. While we may not be able to resist the urge to overindulge ourselves, we can and should resist the urge to overindulge our pets. Let’s face it, we all sneak a little table treat to our pets every now and then. It’s hard to say no to those wanting eyes. And, the excited look on their little face when they realize they are getting a treat is priceless. But, tread lightly down this path!!
For one, animals have a very short span of contentment. Their contented state lasts long enough for them to swallow the last bite. Then, those wanting eyes are right back in your face, watching your every move… expecting… hoping… guilting … If you head down this path, be prepared to deal with it every single time you sit down for dinner.
But, the annoyance of a begging animal is just a minor problem. The bigger problem is that table scraps can lead to indigestion, upset tummies, vomiting and diarrhea. Pets have a very sensitive system. Upsetting the balance of that system can cause them all kinds of health problems. Table scraps can also be high in fat and sugar, which can lead to weight problems, heart problems, and diabetes.
So, What are the Best Types of Treats?
Treats that contain wholesome, natural ingredients are a great alternative for keeping your pets healthy and happy. Consider treats that work to improve the overall health of your pets. There are many out there that promote dental health, assist with achy joints, are high in antioxidants, or vitamin enriched. Some great ones to try are HealthyPetNet’s Gourmet Dental Treats and Antioxidant Health Bars

Getting The Right Saddle For Your Horse

tmoithy — Mon, 04 Aug 2008 13:26:23 +0000

Ensuring that you select the right saddle for your horse is vital. It not only affects the position in which the rider will sit, and therefore can be beneficial in preventing back ache or muscle pain, but it also affects the horse. No responsible horse owner would want their steed to be in discomfort and pain and so choosing the best saddle is very important. There are companies available who will measure your horse and recommend the saddles that they think are most appropriate but as with most things this service costs money. I highly recommend this service as it ensures that you will not be causing any distress to your horse when you ride it.
Once the correct saddle has been purchased it is important to remember that positioning the saddle on the horse’s back is also vital in ensuring your horse is comfortable when ridden. There are three main muscles in the horse’s back which can be affected by the use of a badly positioned saddle. It is important to familiarize yourself with these and their locations before attempting to position the saddle on your horse. This will give you an idea of where the saddle needs to sit in order to be most comfortable for the horse.
In addition to the muscles which can be affected by the saddle you must remember that the saddle is positioned on the horse’s back and so this can have an effect on the spine and its vertebrae. Remembering this should remind you of how important this lesson is and that you cannot afford to take risks with your horse if you want it to lead a long and painless life.
Firstly, place the saddle on the horse’s back, forward of the wither. Once you have done this, slide it back along the back of the horse until it cannot comfortably go any further. This will vary dependent on the shape of the individual horse but the lowest point of the saddle should correspond to the lowest point of the horse’s back. If the saddle is in the correct position, the saddle tree will not be pressing on the scapula (the shoulder of the horse) but will rest in the natural grooves behind them. The most common mistake is to position the saddle too far forward and this then causes the saddle to press on the muscles in the scapula causing pain, impeding movement and creating the possibility of saddle sores.
Once you have learned how to position the saddle you will find it comes naturally after a time. It is worth taking the time to do it properly though if you wish to remain the owner of a healthy, happy horse.

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